Secondary air injektion system ponovno

[Topo]

To je že v redu, da tako iščejo napako. Žal se velikokrat konča z veliko zamenjanih delov, visokim računom, avto pa še vedno ne deluje, kot bi moral. Ko napako najdejo, bi lahko zmontirali nazaj vse tvoje dele, ki so jih zamenjali po nepotrebnem in zaračunali samo pokvarjene dele. To bi bil pošten uradni servis. Itak bi jim deli in pridobljeno znanje prišlo prav pri drugih strankah.
Jaz takega servisa ne poznam, zato si avte popravljam sam. Po sistemu ''to bi lahko bilo krivo'' znam tudi jaz kupovat dele in še ceneje jih dobim.

[danci1973]

A sta ta dva ventila enaka kot na 2006 Legacy 2.0R (14845AA220 in 14845AA230) ?

Imam dva nova na zalogi... Pa pumpo bi tudi moral še kje imeti.

[BackW00d]

Kot sem že rekel neštetokrat

Dober mehanik je predvsem odličen diagnostik

Jebeš mehankarja ki bi menjal vse po vrsti na tvoj račun. Kje je tu logika??? on je nek uraden subaru mehanik ki bi moral imeti vsa potrebna znanja in orodja za troubleshooting delat. To bi morala bit osnova da si pooblaščenec. Oni bi morali sami poskrbet za take stvari, ne pa da na tvojih finančnih plečih probavajo kombinacije pa da vidijo kaj dela?! To je za hruškarje in splošne mehankarje, ki nimajo opcije kontaktirat neko uradno pomoč. Ampak če greš tako težjo stvar reševat k hruškarju ali splošnemu pač nemoreš pričakovat profi obdelave. Žalostno je, da je pri kakemu hruškarju ali splošnemu mojstru večkrat storitev bolj profi kot pri uradnih. Ker uradnim se itak jebe za vse ker majo dosti dela saj so uradni. Valda bo folk nove avte tja vozu pa dajal 300€ za 100€ (ajde mogoče 150€) vreden servis. Oni bodo preživeli, pa če si ti zadovoljen z njimi ali ne.

[romand]

Saj razumem, a ne veš, če ne bo na koncu dražje, kot je vreden avto. Zato bom pustil, kot je.
Za menjavo Lambda sonde sem že dal 260 € (ker je le-ta najbolj pogosto kriva za napako, a se je izkazalo, da ni samo to.
Ventili so 650 € in če niso ventili je lahko še pumpa (850 €), pa še to ni 100 %.

[romand]

Ventili niso enaki.
14864AA020 in 030

[danci1973]

Smola...

A si morda bil zraven, ko so pri Kržiču kaj ugotavljali? Ker kolikor se spomnim, se da tako pumpo kot oba ventila preizkusit preko testerja, tako da vsaj slišiš, ali se pumpa zažene in ali ventila klikata...

To lahko narediš tudi z VAG kablom in programom FreeSSM (https://sourceforge.net/projects/freessm.berlios/)... Če kateri ne bi klikal, lahko z mojimi ventili preizkusiš, ali je problem v ventilu (če bi moj delal OK) ali v napeljavi (če tudi moj ne bi delal)...

[romand]

Bil sem zraven a nič takega ni omenjal.
"Mi je pa mehanik komentiral, da javlja napako ventilov (ista koda za oba ventila) in možnost, da je tudi pumpa. Vendar je pumpo odklopil (pobrisal napake) in sem dva dni vozil z odklopljeno, pa je spet lučka zagorela. To je mehanik komentiral tako, da je to dokaz, da je najbrž pumpa ok, ventila pa je potrebno zamenjati. "
Pri ponovnem kontaktiranju po telefonu vztrajajo pri tem: zamenjati oba ventila, pol se bo pa videlo, če je potrebno še kaj (ker sta stara in sta sigurno že "zapacana").

Kar zadeva predlagane posege preizkusa ipd, to jaz sam ne znam narediti.

[klemz]

Dej karlija kontaktiri, mogoče ima kakšnega v delih...

[danci1973]

Danes je en stric na uklegacy.com objavil tole:

Hi I have decided to post this information as I hope others may find it useful.

When I bought my legacy 2.0RE Auto over two years ago I sent it back to the dealer with hesitation problems, They had it for 3 months and claimed they had done the usual tests, i.e. AVCS solenoids, gauze filters Plugs, coil packs,etc. The car was returned and was better, however it still displayed the following symptoms:

• slight 'stumble' off idle
• odd gearchange behaviour. Immediate change down if, even the slightest acceleration attempted , holding on to a gear when speeding up gently, Change up has to be prompted by backing off the pedal
• Lacklustre midrange torque
• cycling of idle speed with aircon operation,
• occasional bank 1 too rich trouble code

I searched extensively and as I found many threads which listed these problems separately, none combined them all. I took the car for diagnostics but no problems were found. A large number of threads concluded that each fault, in isolation was normal. I used the car regularly and found that a very delicate throttle foot and smooth driving was the way, accepting that these were the Subaru 'quirks' I had read about. Some improvements to the gearchange followed a gearbox oil and filter change.

I then got an intermittent trouble code for 'secondary air injector valve stuck' so I pulled this to bits and found it operating normally. On the off chance I dismantled the primary valve and found it stuck open. Having freed this off I can report the following lessons and improvements.

The valves are easy enough to remove,well within a competent amateurs ability. Remove the associated pipework first and the rigid pipe which goes to the head , do not drop the metal gaskets.

The valves are expensive And no internal parts are available. remove the screws which secure the base and lift this off along with the reed valve. Clean the reed and poppet valves with mild solvent (parrafin).

Now test the valve, the primary has 5 pins there are 3 in a row, these are for the air pressure sensor, above these, 2 with a gap between them, Use a multimeter to test the coil resistance and compare with the other side. Momentarily apply 12v across these and see if the poppet valve moves, Do not hold the power on as damage to the coil may result.

If the valve is stuck, soak it, move it and free it off , Test again.

Re assemble the valve, note the reed valve has locating dowels in it to ensure correct orientation. Then refit and repeat for the other side. The secondary valve only has 2 pins to worry about.You may find that the rubber gasket has stretched, I suggest holding it in place with drops of silicone before assembly.

Now test drive, you may be surprised. In my case, no hesitation off idle, punchy midrange, gearchange behaviour transformed , fuel trim now within parameters ( no bank 1 rich code), Valve stuck trouble code cleared. The car has gone from o.k. to great. It took a few trips for the gearbox to settle down and a while for the idle to re-learn and become stable, now even with aircon switched on there is only a slight change in revs.The results are well worth the effort, bear in mind that a garage would simply replace the valves and charge accordingly, if they manage to successfully diagnose the issue that is.

I believe that I only had intermittent codes for the valves as they only operate on cold start on a cold day, with the warning controlled by the air pressure sensor. If the valve is stuck part way it may not meet the trigger threshold to bring on the warning every time. The warning applies to either valve, do not be mislead.

[Gabrc]

Jaz imam oba ventila doma rabljena seveda...Ne crkneta prav pogosto, sem pa tudi jaz že imel primer ko sem ju rabil zamenjat. Prodam ju za 150 eur, v kolikor se izkaže da ti ne rešita problema ju lahko vzamem nazaj.

[romand]

Zdaj sem šele opazil odgovore v zvezi s problemom, ki sem ga načel. Zanimiv je opis posega, ki ga je pripel Danci.
Vsem se zahvaljujem za komentarje, najbrž pa bom izkoristil ponudbo Gabrc-a in poskušal sam zamenjati oba ventila, pri tem pa bom še preveril, kaj je možno postoriti na obstoječih "zapacanih" ventilih (meni motor sicer deluje brezhibno) . Moral pa bom iti k mehaniku za izbris napak.
Sporočim rezultat, ko bo vse mimo.